YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK

After Pinnacles we left for the celebrated Yosemite National Park.

We were staying outside the park in a RV park named Yosemite Lakes. The park was ok with reasonable facilities however it was past its prime and the facilities looked tired. The place lacked both energy and, surprisingly information about Yosemite NP, which I thought unusual.

Yosemite Valley was and is beautiful. Upon entering the park you experience great views of iconic scenes. The fuss about protecting this place from John Muir and indeed others was well warranted.

On our first day we walked the Lower Falls track in addition to stopping for most view points and photo op sites [and sights] as possible. 

Within Yosemite Valley we visited the museum and Visitor Centre and viewed a short film obviously about Yosemite and its history made by celebrated documentary maker, Ken Burns. It also featured its writer Dayton Duncan who spoke about the importance of the National Park system and the beautiful idea behind it. As you would expect it was very well done and a worthy advertisement for their 10 hour TV show – America’s best idea – The National Parks  - which is truly excellent!

We hopped a free shuttle back to our rv for lunch as the rain started to fall. Before long the rain had intensified and cloud crowded into the valley. We decided to head for the hills which, I’m happy to say, was the way home. 

The drive home to and from the Yosemite Valley was about an hour but the drive was pretty nice.

Day two sadly had a similar forecast to our first day; overcast for the morning before rain setting in in the afternoon. We did a small hike to Mirror Lake on our first day in addition to a repeat of some of the same photo opp sites from day 1.

Our third day in the valley was fine and sunny for the whole day!! And, surprise, surprise it was even more crowded! Side note – any guide book on Yosemite warns of the crowds but claims that despite the hassles of crowds Yosemite is still very much worth it. I would echo that advice. Having said that though, we did have a lot of people to contend with. One guy, who had been coming to Yosemite for a couple of decades claimed it was the busiest non-summer period that he had encountered and, to a degree put the blame on the heavier than normal snow fall. Allow me to explain. Yosemite received some 150% its annual snow fall over the past winter meaning that all of the water falls in and around Yosemite are at the wettest best. This fact apparently had been publicised. And the people, like the water, had flooded in.

On our last sunny day we did the Mist Fall hike and got drenched – see paragraph above!!

Pinnacles National Park for two nights

the truck at Pinnacles

Leaving the coast and heading inland we aimed for Pinnacles National Park; our first National Park for this trip. Originally a National Monument it was made a National Park more recently and is well known for its geology and its recent part in Californian Condor Conservation.

Condors are, of course, a major bird to see for anyone as they are, one, awesome, number two, huge and thirdly they are a major conservation success story. The Condors were endangered to the point of being nearly extinct for much of the same reasons of many species; persecution, habitat loss and, perhaps more strangely lead poisoning. That is not a hunting joke. They would scavenge on bullet riddled deer or whatever, ingest the lead and then suffer and die. DDT and other toxins were also not helpful. The solution was to ban poisons and to preserve huge areas from which hunting was prohibited and to breed the birds in captivity before releasing them back into the wilds. While the birds still need monitoring they have been successful in that wild born chicks are now being raised so there is still room for optimism in their story. It is however not over yet….

I am pleased to say that I saw Condors almost immediately – soaring high over the nearby ridge. Their size, clean white underwing patch and jizz separated them from the smaller and more abundant Turkey Vultures.   

Megs at the Pinnacles

the reservoir at Pinnacles

On our full day we walked the kids through Bear Gulch, a series of caves, to a small reservoir where we were pestered by the ubiquitous Californian Ground Squirrels for food while the kids took it in turns to drop their water bottles onto the ground and have them tumble into the cool waters of the reservoir. Acorn Woodpeckers were common here as were Californian Quail, Western Bluebirds, Brewer’s Blackbirds, Oak Titmouse, Anna’s Hummingbird, Western Kingbird, Californian and Spotted Towhees. Mule Deer and Black tailed Jackrabbit made the mammal list.

male Californian Quail

wild Turkey

Chipmunk - spp?

Western bluebird female

On our first full day I saw no condors so began thinking I was pretty flukey however on the second morning they were there again soaring. I recommend this spot as the place to see them!   

On our final morning Megan and I joined a bird walk run by a ranger and added White breasted Nuthatch and Ash-throated Flycatcher. It was a good walk with a generous and humble ranger guide, dolled up in her full uniform. Met a couple of ladies from a Californian travel company, one of whom was pretty keen at birding. 

May 10 Monterey Aquarium

Monterey Aquarium is an expensive day out but worth every penny. It is quality. Every exhibit is world class as are their presentations, audio visual displays and interpretive materials. Best of all though is their setting; Monterey Bay. The Bay; even the above water bits, is an outstanding natural history display such that I spent quite a bit of time outside the aquarium watching the bay from their verandas.

Jellyfish obviously

The aquarium had a few interesting bird displays; including a wader display which featured this Red-necked Phalarope

The aquarium had a few interesting bird displays; including a wader display which featured this Red Phalarope

One of the major exhibits was the Kelp forest tank which interpreted a common ecosystem outside the aquarium in the bay

Time well spent.

One lifer - surprisingly a true pelagic specie - Fork tailed Storm Petrel. At least five of them, apparently showed up due to some storm activity and had hung around.

rubbish pics but a record shot of my first Fork tailed Storm Petrel

rubbish pics but a record shot of a Fork tailed Storm Petrel

Mammals - Harbour [or Common] Seal, Californian Sea lion, Sea Otter and Humpback Whale/

Birds - Western Gull, all three cormorants, two loons, Pigeon Guilemots, Eared Grebe, Brown Pelicans, to name a few.

We spent a full day at the aquarium - in at 9-45 and out just before closing at 5pm.

If you get to Monterey visit the aquarium!

[ Btw - Hobart needs an aquarium like this!!]

May 9 to Monterey

Bay view at Montana de Oro

On  the 9th we departed Morro Bay and headed to Monterey in the north.

We had a morning visit to Montana de Oro State Park in the morning, which is a lovely place in its own right despite the mass of gum trees there. We had a nice picnic breakfast there before deciding to drive north largely due to the persisting mist.

This park features rugged cliffs, secluded sandy beaches, coastal plains, streams, canyons, and hills, including 1,347-foot Valencia Peak. Naturalists and backpackers enjoy the solitude and freedom found along the park's trails. There are also mountain biking and equestrian trails. The best-known beach is Spooner's Cove, across from the campground. The park's name, "Mountain of Gold," comes from the golden wildflowers that bloom in spring. Wildlife in the park includes black tailed deer and the black oystercatcher. 

Historic Spooner house at Montana de Oro

Arrived at Monterey Fairground for a three night stay with little to report excepting a slight mid trip migraine attack which affected by vision such that i needed a quick drug-up and lie down for a half hour or so....

May 8th - Elephant Seals and more

The 8^th of May had us take a drive north along the coast on Highway 1. 

Usually one could take this road all the way north to Monterey and beyond. Sadly winter storms hammered this coastline and took out a bridge while other parts of the road were cut off due to Mud slides etc. Some people needed resuing while others needed helicopters to deliver food etc. Some businesses have been forced into bankruptcy because of the forced loss of business due to the road closures.

So when we headed north we knew our drive had limits….

Our interest in driving north was to experience some magnificent coastal scenery plus to experience a unique wildlife experience.

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Since the 1990’s, Southern Elephant seals, which had been historically persecuted to the point of near extinction, begun reintroducing themselves to their former haunts from an island refuge off Baha California in Mexico. This species has been amazingly successful and each year hundreds of babies are born; swelling their population. 

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Gopher Snake

Gopher Snake

Botta's Pocket Gopher seen at dusk in our campground

Botta's Pocket Gopher seen at dusk in our campground

The Family Trip – Post RV

On Saturday the 6^th of May we picked up our RV for the beginning of our US adventure.

Before we were picked up we stayed at a very expensive and particularly average hotel – Motel 6 – at Inglewood. Inglewood is an infamous suburb of LA and although we were only perched nervously on its edge we still saw a smattering of homeless and were approached by a drug dealer before breakfast. Speaking of breakfast it was at Denny’s, an American Diner with coffees and other drinks refilled for free plus pancakes, eggs, bacon etc.

Our shuttle arrived at the designated time however the Saturday traffic had turned work day and the roads were chockers!! Still we arrived at the RV depot, only 20 minutes later than the expected ETA. However the process of paperwork, discussing the RV and its many features, filling water tanks and fixing the awning all took a fair bit of time such that we left at 3-20. Long story short we arrived at our campsite after dark but at least we were fed [Wendys…] and had bought provisions for the first few days.

Our RV is, like many things in America, a little big. It is less of a RV and much more of a mobile home. It does feel like I am driving a house. The ‘vehicle’ is 30 foot long, has slide outs so it is roomier in side when set up for each evening. It can accommodate 8 although that would be pretty squashy and it is big enough for all to have a bed of their own except Megan and I who are forced to share…

The first night ‘camping’, as one should have expected, brought on the rain. Not heavy but light constant drizzle and we woke to heavy low cloud and eucalypt stained puddles lining the camp’s roads. The park, at Morro Bay State Park, is surprisingly surrounded by large Eucalypt trees. Large conifers still grow throughout the park. The eucalypts are huge but sensibly cut down occasionally and provide campers with good quality fire wood. At least they would if it was not raining.

Our first morning was also a special day – Millie’s 10^th birthday. Cards were written, presents hastily assembled and too much money was packed into cards. The result was one happy ten year old.   

Later on our first day the rain cleared somewhat and we went a walking. Not too long into the walk we got talking to some locals who insisted on becoming our tour guides and drove us to a nearby lookout which would have been impossible to navigate the RV to. They also took us for a drive  a couple of miles away from our State Park and advised that it would be a good walk back. It was!!

Our spontaneous local guides; Tim and Maureen

Morro Rock

The walk offered great views of Morrow Rock and surrounds; the estuary, bay and much of the tourist part of the town. Sea Otters floated in and around the bay as did a large bull Californian Sea Lion. Californian Rock Squirrels had made their presence known and came out of their rock hideouts begging for food; clearly this approach works pretty often. We got good views of  Pigeon Guillemot, Common and Pacific Loon, Eared Grebe and a Long tailed Duck. On the  way home, fortified by the obligatory sea-side ice cream which we licked like the tourists we were, we saw some Orioles, an aggressive Red tailed Hawk attack some Turkey Vultures plus a cluster of vultures at a dead deer carcass. Also some obliging Nuttal’s Woodpecker and my first Chestnut backed Chickadees for 2017.   All in all we witnessed about a dozen things, any one of which would have made it worth making a walk for.

Sea Otter at Morro Bay

more Sea Otters...

Long tailed Duck

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Californian Ground Squirrel

Home for Millie’s chosen Spaghetti  Bolognaise birthday dinner followed by some Key lime Pie plus Australian red wine + Budweiser for the adults. A pretty satisfying first day with the RV!

Turkey Vultures at sunset

Our First Few Days in the US of A

The travel so far has been all pre – RV!

Day 1 in America

The first day of the tour – the arrival of the family – involved a brief trip around the LAX area. Specifically we aimed at beach areas but pretty soon we gave in to jet lag and went to the hotel for afternoon siestas.

Megan and Thomas overlooking the coast

Gary and Millie

Griffith Observatory

LA View

The following day involved the necessary visit to Hollywood strip plus a splurge on a Hollywood tour which involved some stalking of celebs.

Our US vehicle

We re located to a site north and west of the main city and from here launched a two day assault on Universal Studios. It was quite good – Americans do these things well. Harry Potter World and the ride therein was, also, quite good. Millie liked it a lot as did Matt. Tom did too!

Krusty and fans

Megan and Tom

Lunch Day 2 - Simpsons Pizza

a monster and Frankenstein

One day would have been enough for me however we had spent the money and day 2 began at Universal Studios. Thankfully perhaps there were more crowds in on the second day and therefore the line ups were more tedious than the day before so by about 2pm our kids were over it so we headed towards the hills.

The Chapel at Paramount Ranch - created for the Westworld TV series

Westworld street?

Our final pre RV day had us visit another movie related site; Paramount Ranch. A variety of movies and TV shows had been filmed there over the years including the latest hit show; Westworld. For me there was a decent variety of common birds including Acorn and Nuttel’s Woodpeckers, Californian Towhee, House Wren, Allen’s Hummingbird, Western Bluebird, Nuttal’s Kingbird, American Kestrel, Song Sparrow, Oak Titmouse, Say’s Phoebe, American Crow, Common Raven and Mourning Dove. Other fauna included a feral Parrot species;    plus  Californian Ground Squirrel plus, most excitedly my first Rattlesnake, probably a sub species of the Western Rattlesnake - Southern Pacific Rattlesnake [Crotalus oreganus helleri] .   

American Kestrel

Say's Phoebe

Western Rattlesnake

Western Rattlesnake

Do you like your rattle?

The rest of the shortened day meant a drive around to the coast at Malibu before heading back to Inglewood near LAX.

Californian Coast

beach houses!